The Himalayas of India:  Ladakh and Srinagar, Summer 2013
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Friday 20 June 2013, third night of night sky photography, continued:
This was the third night in a row that I did night sky photography. Why? Because it was only the third night in a row that there was no rain.

And...it was the first night that had no clouds. None. Just beautiful, glorious stars. And at 3500 meters/11,500 feet, these stars were vivid, bold, and clear as well.

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Title: Yugen (Chorten of the Stars)
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. ISO 1600, 20 second exposure, f/2.8 20 June 2013, 2:06 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


These star trails over the Himalayas capture the movement of the stars. Polaris, the North Star, is in the middle of the vortex, a beautiful heavenly dance that plays out every night. The total exposure here was 29 minutes.

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Title: Heavenly Star Trails of the Himalayas
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Total exposure was 29 minutes, each photo a 30 second exposure at ISO 400, f/2.8.  20 June 2013 beginning at 12:55 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


The chorten next to Leh Palace.

"Yugen" translates roughly to "deep" or "mysterious" in Chinese, and in Japanese, suggests a beauty that cannot be described in words:

"To watch the sun sink behind a flower clad hill. To wander on in a huge forest without thought of return. To stand upon the shore and gaze after a boat that disappears behind distant islands. To contemplate the flight of wild geese seen and lost among the clouds. And, subtle shadows of bamboo on bamboo." - Zeami Motokiyo

Title: Yugen (Chorten of the Stars II)
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. ISO 1600, 20 second exposure, f/2.8 20 June 2013, 2:13 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


These star trails over the Himalayas capture the movement of the stars. Polaris, the North Star, is in the middle of the vortex, a beautiful heavenly dance that plays out every night. The total exposure here was 49 minutes. What I find interesting are star trails such as these that show the curvature of both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

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Title: Cosmic Chorten Star Trails
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. 98 photos stacked, each individual photo a 30 second exposure at f/2.8 ISO 200 for a total exposure of 49 minutes, 19 June 2013, 11:47 pm.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


This is the front entrance to Leh Palace, with the beautiful Milky Way on the left, taken a little after 3 in the morning.

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Title: Leh Palace Milky Way
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Leh Palace was light painted with a bright flashlight. ISO 3200, 20 second exposure, f/2.8 20 June 2013, 3:03 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


The imposing Leh Palace, with the fort on the right side on top of the mountain.

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Title: Leh Palace Reaching For The Milky Way 2
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens at 11mm. Light painted Leh Palace combined with ambient light from city below. Two photos blended: stars @ ISO 3200, 20 second exposure f/2.8; building @ same settings but ISO 800. 20 June 2013, 1:45 am
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


After ten days of clouds and seemingly constant rain, the sky was finally clear.  Clear, I say!  I was so happy.  High above Leh near Leh Palace, I watched the moon set and smiled as the Milky Way slowly emerged, one of the first times I've seen the Milky Way in the Northern Hemisphere.  And I had the photographic equipment to capture it in all its Himalayan glory at approximately 3657/12,000 ft. in elevation.

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Title:  Milky Way Meditation
Info:  Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted the stupa. ISO 1600, 30 second exposure, f/2.8 20 June 2013, 2:24 am.
Photographer:  Ken Lee
Location:  Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


Although I did not return to the hotel until 4 am, I was filled with energy, having experienced the Milky Way this vividly, a fantastic experience made even more potent by the otherworldly call to prayer that I heard at 3:25 am, a call to prayer that echoed throughout the expansive Leh Valley and beyond.

And I felt triumphant, finally being able to photograph the night sky - my first Milky Way attempts ever - after nights of cloudy and rainy skies.

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Title: Leh Fort Milky Way
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. The hill is illuminated by ambient light from the city only. ISO 4000, 20 second exposure, f/2.8 19 June 2013, 3:19 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


I woke up at 11:30 am after a beautiful evening of night sky and Milky Way photography.

The first two times that Tom and I came to Leh, we were crazy about Dogra Dhaba. They had delicious rajma dal. But a couple of Indians told me that Dogra Dhaba was now awful, so I stayed away for a few days, but finally, curiosity got the better of me. I went to eat, and very quickly, a sad realization sank in.

Dogra Dabha sucks.

The food that comes vacuum-sealed at Trader Joe's smokes them. I tried the rajma dal and bengan bartha, and both were bland. I'd call it a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10, as they taste better than those horrible roadside dhabas along the high passes that serve tasteless yellow dal. I didn't recognize any of the people there, and the guy said that they are all new and it is under new ownership now. How sad.

And now, for more random stuff:
- A restaurant in Karu near Hemis Monastery boasts that they are the highest dosa place in the world.
- Earlier today, a shopkeeper asked if I were from Italy.
- The first call to prayer occurred at 3:24 am. I know this because I was shooting the Milky Way. The call to prayer echoed mystically around the expansive Leh Valley, setting off an equally echoing chorus of dog barks. I'm so happy to hear that Ladakhi dogs are so pious.

<no photos from 20 June 2013 during the day>

Friday 21 June 2013 - Thikse Monastery:
After the requisite muesli-fruit-curd-honey and sweet lassi breakfast at Gesmo, I took the shortcut down Library Road to the alley right across and below the fort and past the cemetery to the Old Bus Stand, which is higher up than the new bus stand and tends to have the local buses. This avoids having to go up to Main Bazaar and then back down through all the traffic, which must be twice as long.

This photo is of the chortens in front of glorious Thikse Monastery.


Chortens, Thikse Monastery.

There at Thikse Monastery, I spoke to someone named Corey, who graduated from Taft High School in Woodland Hills in 1975. He seems to travel around, but every year, he comes and stays at Thikse Monastery and fixes things, especially where water is concerned. He is going to install drip irrigation at the monastery. He says that the monks know philosophy, but they aren't good at fixing things. And indeed, one of the monks was looking at the amplifier Corey was fixing as if it has dropped there from outer space. Corey lives there about three months out of the year fixing things.

One of the monks at Thikse Monastery.

The view of Thikse Village from Thikse Monastery.

I have photographed this door every single time I've visited Thikse. This was the third time.

The two-story high Maitreya (Future) Buddha, about 15 meters in height, peers up over offerings.

Remember, follow the little forward and backward autorickshaws to navigate.


Ken's photos of Nobel Peace Prize Winner Aung San Suu Kyi, as well as photos of Peru, Burma, India, Morocco, China, Thailand, Ghana, Ecuador, and elsewhere, have appeared in many books, magazines, websites, and galleries.  Visit the Ken Lee Photography Website. Some of Ken's select photos may be purchased through his Imagekind Store.

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The Himalayas of India: Summer 2013

    

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