The Himalayas of India:  Ladakh and Srinagar, Summer 2013
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Monday 17 June - Leh Palace, continued:
I was ecstatic. This was the first night on my trip with no rain. Sure, it was cloudy, but no matter. I took full advantage, continuing to shoot night sky photos around Leh Palace.

Leh Palace has a chorten by the corner, and although this was physically awkward to try and photograph, I wanted to convey the cosmic quality of the chorten reaching up to the stars with Leh Palace in the background. This is a bit more cluttered than I often have my night sky photographs, but it seemed right to do at least one this way.

Title: Cosmic Chorten
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted chorten. ISO 200, 30 second exposure, f/2.8 17 June 2013, 11:42 pm.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


Tuesday 18 June - continuing to photograph Leh Palace at night:
I went around to the front to begin photographing the columned entrance to Leh Palace, I even took out the electroluminescent wire, light painting around the columns and even the doorway. During this entire time, I did not see one other person.

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Title: Mystic Doorway of Leh Palace
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted Leh Palace. Doorway light painted using electroluminescent wire that was fixed by a very nice man on the Main Bazaar for 50 rupees. ISO 320, 86 second exposure, f/2.8 18 June 2013, 12:27 am, 3700K temperature to partially alleviate lit-up sky from city lights.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.

 


It was past midnight on Tuesday, and I had photographed Leh Palace during this cloudy night. But I wasn't through yet. During yesterday's walk, I had seen an old prayer wheel at the end of the road that leads up to Leh Palace, so I walked down there, deciding to "light paint" this while photographing it.

Light painting is a photographic technique in which one moves a light source while keeping the shutter open for longer periods of time, and is really a performance of sorts. The light can be used to selectively illuminate parts of the subject, or to "paint" a picture by shining it into the camera lens. I've usually light painted subjects, as this is more of my interest.

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Title: Cosmic Prayer Wheel
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted prayer wheel located in Old Leh. ISO 320, 69 second exposure, f/2.8 18 June 2013, 12:53 am, 3700K temperature to alleviate lit-up sky from city lights.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Old Leh City, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


Tuesday 18 June - Leh:
It rained all morning. So much for lack of rain. The sun made an appearance for maybe half an hour, only to disappear behind thick clouds again.

I called Fayaz, my Kashmiri brother. I hadn't told him I was in India, and I tried to play a joke on him, saying "I am crazy tourist. I vant to be on your houseboat." but his connection was very poor and said I kept cutting in and out, so the joke didn't work, and he ended up having to call back. Anyway, I told him I was going to try and go there in a week. I had actually debated simply showing up unannounced, but I thought I should make absolutely sure he was there.


Also while going to lunch, I also decided to track down an electronics repair shop to fix my blue electroluminescent wire, which worked only momentarily last night. The guy was in the middle of repairing a CRT-style TV, but immediately dropped everything to fix my el-wire and only charged 30 rupees. He then didn't have change, so he just gave it to me and said it was fine. I got change and came back and eventually gave him 50 because of the great service.

NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY - 2ND NIGHT:
Around 10 pm, I walked up Changspa and then up the steps to Shanti Stupa, stopping to photograph smaller stupas or flags along the way. As the moon was not very bright and usually hidden being thick clouds, I light painted everything, mostly with the 600-lumen flashlight, a very bright little bugger, although I would also warm things up a bit with the red head lamp as well. As I was trying to photograph the corner of a house with flags on the roof, all the lights for the main stupa went out. I smiled. Excellent. The stupa had been lit up before, making it hard to do capture the sky due to the contrast, but now, I'd be able to do both. The lights seemed to go off around midnight.

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Title:  Two Stupas
Info:  Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted the two stupas. ISO 160, 148 second exposure, f/4.5, 18 June 2013, 11:14 pm.
Photographer:  Ken Lee
Location:  Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas on the way up to Shanti Stupa.


Tibetan prayer flags whipping in the wind, sending prayers to the heavens on the way up to Shanti Stupa in Leh, Ladakh. Leh is about 3524 meters (11,562 ft.) in elevation. Shanti Stupa is a steep 500 steps above that, and was built by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura in 1991. The stupa holds relics of the Buddha at its base, and was enshrined by the Dalai Lama.

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Title: Shanti Prayer Flags
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted cliff and prayer flags. ISO 400, 25 second exposure, f/3.5, 18 June 2013, 11:39 pm.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


Still climbing up the long steps to Shanti Stupa.

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Title:  Shanti Mountain Buddha
Info:  Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted the two stupas. ISO 400, 25 second exposure, f/3.5, 18 June 2013, 11:47 pm.
Photographer:  Ken Lee
Location:  Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas on the way up to Shanti Stupa.


The luminescent Shanti Stupa is a steep 555 steps above Leh at over 3657m/12,000 ft. in elevation, and was built by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura in 1991 when there were no roads or lights, using six donkeys for help. The stupa holds relics of the Buddha at its base, and was enshrined by the Dalai Lama. I've gone here on each of my three visits to Ladakh, the first time in 1997, six years after it was completed. As a bonus, I have been in contact with Mr. Nakamura, thanks to Joan L., and I am honored and super excited to say that he's been describing how he built this and was complimentary toward my photos of the Shanti Stupa area!!!!

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Title: Shanti Stupa Dream
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted the stupa. ISO 200, 30 second exposure, f/2.8 19 June 2013, 12:15 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


Title: Shanti Stupa Trance
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens at 11mm. Light painted the stupa. ISO 400, 30 second exposure, f/2.8 19 June 2013, 12:18 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


The clouds came in, but I was still enjoying my second night of light painting up at Shanti Stupa, overlooking the city of Leh.

Locked out of the hotel!
The streets most of the way down Changspa and all of central Leh had no lights...dark everywhere in the houses as well. Returning to the hotel, I was dismayed to find the large metal gate locked. I had asked the owner if I could get in last night, and he said the gate would be unlocked. Apparently I had to ask every night? I tried wiggling it several times and pressing the buzzer button on the right, which didn't seem to do anything. I finally hooked my backpack on the top of the gate's decorative spikes and scaled the concrete side the gate was connected to because there were two steps leading to a store, making it a bit easier to climb. Even then, I was lucky I'm tall or that would have been quite challenging. I lowered myself down slowly with my arms since I was high enough that I could injure myself jumping down in the dark. Wednesday 19 June 2013 - Hemis Festival, 3rd night of night photos - Milky Way!!!!!!!!:

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Title: Shanti Stupa Meditation
Info: Nikon D7000, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Light painted the stupa. ISO 400, 30 second exposure, f/2.8 19 June 2013, 12:26 am.
Photographer: Ken Lee
Location: Leh, Ladakh, Indian Himalayas.


Wednesday 19 June 2013 - Hemis Festival, 3rd night of night photos - Milky Way!!!!!!!!:
Hemis Monastery has a vibrant 2-day festival honoring Guru Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to the Himalayas.

And I'd be going for my second time! However, I got a late start due to being out late doing night photos, and there weren't too many buses running by the time I got to the old bus stand, but I still managed to grab one.

There at Hemis, I kept remembering the adventure of walking back down to Karu in the rain. Gave a donation of 100r for the festival, ate 10 veg momos for 50r from the nuns, and enjoyed myself. This was the second day of the festival, and there were a lot less people there than the first day, which I knew since I attended the first day in 2008. This time, it was quite sunny most of the time, and didn't rain. On this trip, it seemed rare to do anything not involving rain.


A giant thangka painting of Guru Padmsambhava adorns Hemis Monastery during the Hemis Festival.

At one point during the festival, I put my camera low to the ground to get an "ant's eye view" of some of the performers, a common technique photographers use to offer different perspectives. This boy walked right up and peered down into the camera while his parents laughed and looked on, amused.

The Hemis Festival.

The prayer wheels of Hemis Monastery during the festival honoring Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to the Himalayas.

A Ladakhi pilgrim attending the festival at Hemis Monastery.

Remember, follow the little forward and backward autorickshaws to navigate.


Ken's photos of Nobel Peace Prize Winner Aung San Suu Kyi, as well as photos of Peru, Burma, India, Morocco, China, Thailand, Ghana, Ecuador, and elsewhere, have appeared in many books, magazines, websites, and galleries.  Visit the Ken Lee Photography Website. Some of Ken's select photos may be purchased through his Imagekind Store.

Buy Ken's art at ImageKind.com.

Join the fun and participation on Ken's Facebook Page.


The Himalayas of India: Summer 2013

    

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