Death Valley For New Year's Eve, 2009-2010
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Lisa surveys the fairway at the Devil's Golf Course in Death Valley, CA. |
Death Valley's gorgeous golden desert hues. |
The Devil's Cornfield, said to resemble a field of corn from certain vantage points. |
December
31st. New Year's Eve. We got our room at Stovepipe Wells. But
before the celebration, Lisa and I went out into the nearby Mesquite Sand
Dunes in the evening to see the full moon. Technical mumbo-jumbo: Taken with a Nikon D50 on a Jobe Gorillapod, leaving the shutter open for 30 seconds, ISO 200, f3/5. |
Death
Valley in December dips below freezing at night. When we were at the
Amargosa Hotel, the water pipes froze during the night. Lisa wore her black hooded parka. I thought she was a striking figure against the night desert sky and the stark sandscape, shrouded in the dark. She stood perfectly still for 30 seconds to get this exposure. On the way out, we ran into a guy. "Have you seen my cameras?" He had left three cameras on tripods in the dunes for long time exposures, and couldn't find two of them. We wished him luck. We went back to the Stovepipe Wells, where we were staying for two nights, and where locals and guests ushered in the new year, with Europeans, Asians, everyone welcoming in a new decade. |
The next morning of the 2010 new year, Lisa and I began our drive to Scotty's Castle along the 190. The first day of the new year seemed like a good time to explore the amazing desertscapes of Death Valley. |
Scotty's
Castle. Of course, it's not a castle, nor was it ever owned by Scotty. How did someone come to build a two-story Mediterranean villa in the middle of Death Valley? |
Rodeo
star turned con man Walter Scott, or "Death Valley Scotty", convinced quiet
religious insurance millionaire Albert Johnson of Chicago to invest in his
desert gold mine. Problem was, Scotty had no gold mine.
Johnson came to Death Valley on numerous trips, hanging out in the desert and, oddly, becoming friends with the boisterous, outgoing cowboy con man Scotty, a rather odd pairing. |
Johnson developed a disability, and his wife Bessie became convinced that Death Valley was good for his health. She encouraged the idea of building something more comfortable than the rough shack Johnson had built earlier. The couple began constructing what they modestly called Death Valley Ranch in 1922. |
Eventually,
Johnson and investors caught wind of Scotty's con. He had no gold
mine. Nonetheless, Johnson forgave him, and the two became fast
friends. Scotty continued his tall tales, telling visitors that he had built the castle for himself from money made from his gold mine, and it became known as "Scotty's Castle". Scott put in regular appearances at the castle to entertain Johnson's dinner guests with his stories, spinning unbelievable tales about his life and mine. Johnson did nothing to discourage Scott's tall tales. On the contrary, he found it utterly entertaining. |
The Johnsons ran short on funds during the Great Depression in 1929. But they ran into another snag that halted construction of their desert dream home. Surveyors discovered that the original homesteader surveys were incorrect, and that Johnson didn't actually own the land that his home was built on. The Johnsons immediately stopped construction of their pool, clock tower, and other parts of the home, and were ensnared in a five-year legal fiasco that was finally resolved by Presidential intervention in 1935, which allowed Johnson to purchase the property. |
The
Johnsons continued to pay for Death Valley Scotty to live on the premises,
giving him a monthly allowance. Scotty lived in a guesthouse near the
"castle", happy to hang out with his dog and his beloved mules and drink and
smoke and tell tall tales to visitors. He rarely saw his wife. She eventually sued him for half of his stakes in his gold mine, only to get nothing since he had no gold mine. Death Valley Scotty passed away in the 1950s, but is buried on a hill overlooking the castle so he can keep watch over "his castle". Buried next to him is his dog. His wife is buried elsewhere. |
Not far from Scotty's Castle is the Ubehebe Crater, the result of an enormous steam eruption 2000 years ago. |
Ubehebe Crater is half a mile across and over 600 feet deep, and presents a very colorful spectacle with variegated, buckled strata around its sides and grey-black ash on the rim. |
Death Valley California 2009-2010
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