Returning from Bonfim, we went up the Elevador Laserda, a super-large elevator that transports people from the lower city to the upper city of the Pelourinho.  And although modern today, the Portuguese used slaves and mules to transport goods from the port to the upper city in times past.

We headed down Rua Chile to Boteca Do Dy, a local restaurant where Grupo Z.J.A.P. were performing, not far from the Praça da Sé bus stop, based on a recommendation from Bahia Online, a fantastic resource of culture, food and music created by Cana Brava record store owner Randy.

Grupo Z.J.A.P plays a form of samba called chorinho ("little cry" or "little lament"), also known as choro.  And despite the name, it's an upbeat, lively form of music, a sort of urban samba Brazilian singer Aquiles Rique Reis described as ”classical music played with bare feet and callus on the hands.”  Note the seven-string guitar, which this gentleman played with great virtuosity, also holding down the bass lines.

Grupo Z.J.A.P. plays Boteca do Dy Restaurante every Friday evening from 6-10pm.  It's a popular local scene, and a warm friendly environment.  And between that and the band, this was easily one of my favorite parts of the trip.

I marveled at the virtuosity of Paulinho, playing a tambourine known as the pandeiro.  The skin can be tuned, and the platinelas, or metal jingles, are cupped and have considerably less ring and sustain than Western tambourines.

Paulinho played with great precision and groove, frequently playing rhythms by alternating the thumb, fingertips, heel, and palm of the hand.  It was immediately clear that we were witnessing a master percussionist.

Samba dancing at Boteca do Dy in the Pelourinho.

This group of locals came over to us and asked where we were from.  Upon finding out we were from Los Angeles, they asked, "Do you like The Doors?"  My affirmative answer was greeted with a huge smile.  "Do you like Red Hot Chili Peppers?"  Yes!  Even bigger smiles.

I loved this place so much that I returned the following Friday.  And the same group of people were there, happy to see me, happy to be there.  If I lived here, I would come here as often as possible.  Great music, great people, great vibe, great prices.

Master percussionist Paulinho displays his sophisticated rhythms.

Mid-set, a peanut vendor wandered over to our table.  Paulinho continued playing, but signaled that he'd love to have some peanuts.  I smiled It was my pleasure.  But I then realized that his band was, quite literally, playing for peanuts.